| As a child, in the late
thirties, I often traveled by steam train from
Wellington to Otaki. There I spent idyllic summer
holidays at Pukehou, a farm on the main road
north. I was put on the puffer at the smart new
Railway Station, with strict instructions not to
leave the train until I got to my destination.
There I would be met by my host family.
The first drama was the rush to close the
windows as we left the harbour to enter a series
of tunnels. If not we would be covered in black
smuts that flew out of the funnel from the coal
fires that created the steam to drive the engine.
These black specks covered our clothes or could
cause painfully smarting eyes. Even opening or
closing the push-up windows was a disaster for
our white cotton gloves.
As I recall it took about an hour and a
quarter of chuffing and puffing to reach
Paekakariki and the great rush to the excitement
of the refreshment rooms. Of course I disobeyed
and got off the train, precious holiday pocket
money in hand, to buy a bottle of red or green
fizz or a cup of tea and a thick ham sandwich or
a wedge of fruit cake.
I used to hover anxiously at the back, waiting
for the men, then the women, and lastly the
children to be served. That seemed to be the
order of serving by the team of efficient women,
in green uniforms, pouring tea at an amazing rate
from a huge enamel teapot.
The mixture of excitement and anxiety was not
only for the anticipated food but because at any
moment the steam whistle would blow. Would we all
be served in time or have to run for it, leaping
up the high steps as the train started with a
series of jerks, sending tea splashes in all
directions. If you had two free hands you clamped
the saucer over the thick cup, with the sandwich
and / or cake on top. With a bit of luck the tea
stayed in the cup. We settled down with the
clacking wheels gathering momentum, seeming to
hiss fish-sh ‘n chips, fish-sh ‘n chips
over and over again. Next stop for refreshments
– Otaki, where I had other things to do.
One of my favourite things in the present
day Paekakariki Railway Museum is the big photo
of the refreshment room, with its magnificent
kauri counter, and the women in uniform poised
for action. I can still taste those ham
sandwiches and the railway fruit cake.
By Sunny Amey
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